Introducing... Kate James





Could you please tell us about your background... you majored in Printmaking and Photography, and work in The Work of Worry is Never Done consists of ropemaking techniques and a video. How have you adapted your formal training to fit your current artistic practice?
I completed an honours Degree majoring in Printmaking before returning to study to finish a Master of Art by research at RMIT University last year. Although I was in the Printmaking department, my work never really progressed in that direction and I was encouraged to work with mediums that best suited me. What was important for me was that the research program allowed me to experiment and play with lots of new materials and techniques. I moved away from working in a 2-D format to a more object-based practice, which I felt a lot more comfortable and confident with. The skills that I learnt during this time were invaluable, the hair-based techniques, including the rope-making, hitching and hairwork, all began whilst studying, and I continue to use these techniques.



Anxiety is a terrible thing to experience... What draws you towards exploring this uncomfortable emotion, and what are you hoping to realise at the end of this journey (if it can be considered a journey!)
Anxiety has been a life-long companion for me and both the making of my work and (hopefully) the outcome of these pieces address my concerns in some way. However, although my artmaking is often motivated by my personal experience, anxiety is a universal phenomenon which can have profound psychological, behavioural and physiological effects. It is these effects which I explore in both the process and the endpoint of each piece. For example, a common feature of anxiety is its incessant and ruminative quality whereby thoughts, images or actions are repeated over and over. This informs not only the subject matter of my work but also the type of techniques I utilise which rely upon monotony and repetition. By recording domesticated animals exhibiting compulsive behaviours and playing them on a loop format I aim to highlight the incessant, relentless and monotonous nature of suffering from anxiety.

Whilst doing research for my MA, I met a horse named Mr. Jones who 'windsucked'. Often caused by the stress or frustration of being stabled or socially isolated, windsucking becomes habitual and may be performed in situations completely removed from the original cause of anxiety. Mr. Jones had windsucked for many years, wearing down his teeth and causing ongoing health problems. I filmed Mr. Jones on three separate occasions to capture the footage for Windsuck.

Still from Windsuck video

The materials I utilise, such as dog hair, horsehair, and sheep fleece, are employed for their evocative/provocative qualities. Animal hair and fleece can induce opposing or paradoxical reactions and feelings from people. For some, a sense of comfort, warmth, familiarity and protection may be felt, whilst others have a strong aversion to animal hair and find it unsettling, allergy-provoking, dirty, and even anxiety-inducing. In this way both the choice of media and the methods of making the work itself all continue to reflect the experience of anxiety.

As far as an end to this journey, I can’t foresee any conclusions at this point. Freud saw anxiety as a point at which many of the most significant questions about ourselves converge, referring to it as “a riddle whose solution would be bound to throw a flood a light on our whole mental existence.”



Looking at your previous work, there is a strong focus on animals. Could you please share with us why animals present such a lasting appeal to you?
I guess over the years I have developed a strong connection and empathy for animals. Perhaps this is why my work aims to reveal the often overlooked experience of anxiety amongst animals.

Animals, my pets in particular, have always played an important part of my life. I relate well to them and thoroughly enjoy their company. I am constantly learning from them, and I am entertained and fascinated by their behaviours. I think this may be in my blood as my family are also very devoted to their pets. As children, my sister and I had countless pets and grew up with them as integral members of our family.


On a similar note, do you have any pets?
We have three horses Peppermint John, Suckatash (my mare that I learnt to ride on at the age of 12), and D’artagnon (pictured below). We also have an English Pointer named Millie Mae, two cats, Coco and Bella, and five chooks.

Kate with D'artagnon


The works in The Work of Worry is Never Done are amazingly detailed and look intensely laboured over! How long did it take you to create these works, and what are the pleasures and perils of working with horse hair?
The horsehair hitching requires the most time and diligence. Hitching consists of using ten individual horse hairs twisted together to form a 'pull'. A stringline running around a dowel forms a mould. Each 'pull' is then knotted in sequence over the string, gradually winding around the dowel. This is an extremely slow and labour-intensive process that puts a lot of strain on the body. The constant tension that must be kept on the stringline means that your fingers, hands, arms, shoulders and neck are constantly tensed. Progress is so slow that it is difficult to see that you have even moved forward from one hour to the next. My first completed piece, The Work of Worry is Never Done, took me over 25 solid hours of hitching, used exactly 2,010 individual hairs, and was made up of 12,416 knots.


Although I enjoy working with horsehair immensely, for me, hitching represents the epitome of suffering from anxiety: pointless, monotonous and creating a state of constant tension. Paradoxically, there is also an addictive and hypnotic effect derived from this technique that makes it somehow soothing.

Working with hair also references many things for me such as a memento mori for a treasured friend, my teenage obsession in plaiting manes and tails, and great fairytales such as Rapunzel and Rumpelstiltskin. My collection of horsehair necklaces (detail pictured below), entitled Escape from the Tower, reference these classic tales.



Are there any other themes that you’d like to explore in the future?
I am constantly looking for new ways to address both ongoing themes and new ones in my work. I don’t feel that I’ve finished with my current ideas at all and am planning new works at the moment, such as a collaborative piece with my horses.

And last but not least, how do you overcome worry and anxiety these days?
I am getting a little better at managing my worries. I have enormous support from my husband and family and am getting better at recognising and attempting to control the affects of anxiety but know that it will always be lurking somewhere in my life. As the title of the show says “the work of worry is never done!”

PAN Gallery Ceramic Art Award: now accepting applications!


It's back!

Currently in its second year, the panGALLERY Ceramic Art Award is an annual award show that recognises exceptional talent within contemporary ceramics. This year's theme is Table Manners, and ceramic artists are invited to submit a cup and saucer set for consideration.

Here is some information about Table Manners.

Traditionally, afternoon tea has called for the very finest: your best china, polished silverware and impeccable manners. Attitudes toward decorum and the rules of social etiquette in contemporary society have since relaxed, leading one to question whether table manners have lost their relevance in today’s world.

panGALLERY, in association with Craft Victoria, calls on ceramic artists to submit an original artwork that embraces the dining table’s most iconic representation of good manners: the cup and saucer. How does this usually inseparable pair address the issue of etiquette, or lack thereof, in today’s social settings? Is there still a place at the table for the cup and saucer, and why should knowing which way to drink your tea and place your cup affect this inherently convivial ritual?

Selected works will be included in an exhibition at panGALLERY entitled Table Manners with a final award winner selected from exhibited works and awarded $1500. Work submitted must be new work and not previously exhibited.


The Award will be curated by Kim Brockett & Anita Cummins of Craft Victoria and judged by esteemed ceramacist and COUNTER favourite, Kris Coad.

Click here to for more information about the Award, and click here to download the exhibition brief and application form.

Last year's winner Katie Jacobs took home the $1,500 prize as well as many, many finger snaps for her hard work, and we expect this year's ante to be upped! Applications are due Monday 16 August, so you better get cracking!

High Vis Dandy


You may remember the High Vis Dandy series of workshops recently held at Craft Victoria and you may also remember our enthusiastic support of Matthew's safety-first, fashion forward approach to high vis wear.

With Next Wave almost upon us and with High Vis Dandy as one of the jewels in Next Wave's (heavily bejewelled) crown, keep an eye out on the Paris end of Collins Street when High Vis refashions into a haute couture construction site.

In the meantime, High Vis Dandy are on the lookout for volunteers to help out during their performance between 17-21 May. For more information, click here.

Introducing... Bonny Lad

This week, meet Melbourne-based jeweller Sam of Bonny Lad. Originally from Korea, Sam moved to Melbourne in 2000 and has lived here ever since. Lucky us! Bonny Lad is stocked at COUNTER so pop by during opening hours to have a peek at his lovely range of flora-inspired fine silver jewellery.

Make sure you check out his website for more about Sam!



Could you please tell us about yourself...
I came to Melbourne in 2000 to study English as I wanted to become a translator/writer in Korea, but I have stayed in Melbourne ever since. I have had a few jobs, including working in a second-hand furniture shop, and I knew I had to complete further study to get a job as English is my second language. I enrolled in Product Design/Jewellery at NMIT (Greensborough) in 2005 and I immediately loved the course and wanted to continue. Since I was young I have always enjoyed being creative. I would knit, paint, draw and make traditional Korean hand cut paper boxes. My creative interest in craft-based practice helped me learn jewellery-making techniques and skills in a short period time. After I graduated, I set up a jewellery studio and completed the NEIS course. Today I am here and still making...


Sam at work in his studio

Each Bonny Lad ‘collection’ is very distinctive from the last. Could you please tell us about the creative process before you start each collection?
It has been almost my journey as a designer. Over the last few years, I moved houses a few times to different areas. It was a momentous time, and I used these moments to help develop my designs. After school I used to push myself to make one project after another. I don't think I can push myself to make as many ranges as I did but this period has helped me concentrate on my style as a jeweller.

I also grew up in Seoul, the capital of Korea, where I have fond memories of my childhood of playing in the dirt, climbing small mountains and finding crystals under the ground. At the same time I was always surrounded by tall buildings so I would get nervous if I went camping and didn’t see buildings or supermarkets for more then a few days.

The park has been always big influence to me as my main concerns are about the relationship between nature and man-made – in particular I’ve questioned whether a park is considered natural or man-made. I find interesting organic objects and try to make them into solid wearable pieces in man-made ways. Once, after spending time in a park, I found a little bike reflector and was fascinated by those hexagon images and how they related each other and sparkled... not just in terms of colour but how they joined together. In the end, all of my work has been part of a journey.


Building from the previous question, what approach do you take when you encounter creative obstacles?
I just have to focus on being positive as I have always been busy trying to balance between my business and life. I have been pretty good so far as I love to make things so I am self-motivated all the time. But it is a challenge to maintain time-management, marketing, and organising my business.




You currently have an exhibition on at the Journal cafe windows, congratulations! You last had a show there in 2008. Since then, how do you think your work has evolved?
Thank you! There will be always things I think I could have been better, but I am happy what I have done this time. It was quite strange and amazing to hear friends saying how my design ideas have developed in the last three years. These works are actually same concept from the beginning but have developed in technique and design.

Looking at your website you have a section for ‘commissions’. What has been a particularly memorably commission for you so far?
All commission works are special, but my first wedding rings for a lovely couple presented a big challenge. I only had three days to make two rings after we discussed design and materials. Gold is such an expensive material to use so I couldn't afford to make any mistakes at all. I had some technical problems at my studio and I almost melted the gold. I almost screamed at myself... but I made it at the end. Commission work is always challenging, but I learn a lot and it is quite rewarding.

What would your dream collaboration entail?
Right now my business is perhaps too small to do a collaboration, but It would be so cool to collaborate with TV or film... but at the moment I don't really know.



And finally, what’s next for Bonny Lad? Where do you hope to take it in the future, and what are you looking forward to?
I just wanna be rich and famous! Just kidding... well who doesn't want that? But I have to say I am happiest when making jewellery and it is great thing. I would love to work full time on my business so I can concentrate all my energy into it. I also would love to be take part in more exhibitions, as well as solo shows.

April Hatch roundup


Our favourite mid-month market Craft Hatch took place last Saturday at the City Library. This month's edition featured 10 awesome designers: Adelle & Little Lamb, Brkich (Belinda Crossley), Dawn Tan, Gemma Johnson, Kylie Bickerdike, Little Harvest, Mae Finlayson, students from NMIT's Gold & Silversmithing course, Sharon Margaret and Victoria Mason.

Here's a peek at the day's happenings!





Gemma Johnson


Little Lamb by Lisa Wang (left) and Adelle (right)




NMIT Gold & Silversmithing






The next market will take place on Saturday 8 May at the City Library. We'll be posting the line up very soon on our (brand spanking new) website: www.craftvic.org.au

Anita Cummins in Inside Out magazine!


The latest edition of Inside Out (with a glorious cover by UK paper-based artist Rob Ryan) features some delightful pom poms by one very lovely Anita Cummins! Anita is assistant retail manager here at CVHQ, and her work is stocked right here at COUNTER.

If you'd like to get your paws on you can get order in one (or two, or five) of her pom pom necklaces. Just make sure you give us a call first! We also hear that Anita's autumn-perfect machine-knitted scarves will be reappearing at COUNTER very soon, so make sure you keep an eye out.

Craft to Consumer: Mon 19 April


Craft to Consumer is back!

Presented by Craft Victoria staff Carmel McKie (COUNTER Retail Manager), and Pip Carroll (Market Development Coordinator), and Kim Brockett (Craft Hatch Market Coordinator), this edition of Craft to Consumer is all about retail opportunities.

Focusing on three main areas - retailers, online avenues and markets - this event is an excellent stepping stone on the ABC's of getting started and getting your work out there.

Bookings for Craft to Consumer have just opened, but be quick as places are filling quickly! This event will take place on Monday 19 April from 6-8pm at Craft Victoria. It costs $20 for non-members and $10 for Craft Victoria members.

To attend, please call us on 9650 7775.

Introducing... Elizabeth Yong of PRIMOEZA

Autumn is upon us and what better way to embrace the season than through an interview with the wonderful Elizabeth Yong of knitwear label PRIMOEZA!

Elizabeth's delicate knits are all hand machine-knitted in her bayside studio and we've currently got a lovely selection of scarves and accessories awaiting your perusal here at COUNTER. But judging by Elizabeth's experiments, we can't wait to see what she comes up with for her next collection!

For more information, be sure to visit the PRIMOEZA website as well as Elizabeth's blog - it's a great read!

Happy Friday everyone, see you at Craft Hatch tomorrow!




How did your interest in textiles all begin?

Some of my earliest memories are of sleeping over at my best friend's house. Her family lived in a mansion-like house that was filled with antique wooden furniture, cracked leather chaise lounges, heavy, earthy tableware, crisp white cottons and English garden floral prints. I was so young but I had a real appreciation for those objects, the craftsmanship and the beautiful materials they were made from.

I don't know why I'm drawn to textiles in particular. I do notice though, that textile people seem to be quiet, introspective, love to travel and are appreciative of little details, which maybe describes me.




Could you please tell us about PRIMOEZA and how it all began?
Coming to set up my label has been a very long process. When I finished school, I put myself through many years of study, trying to find something I could apply myself to. I was very, very dissatisfied for so long but thank goodness, I finally had an epiphany and enrolled in the Studio Textiles course at RMIT.

Over a further five years of part time study, I worked my way through all the electives – weave, print, experimental textiles, but felt a real affinity for knit. I had never seen a knitting machine before, and it was a love/hate experience at first. The machines can be quite intimidating, noisy and grimy. I have always loved knit as a medium but I'm not much of a hand knitter so when I discovered what you can do with them, I was hooked.

Concurrently, I was working with a small business that imports the most luxurious fabric from Europe. This really fed me, showed me what amazing contemporary products you can make with traditional techniques, and the exposure educated my eye and feel for quality materials.

Ironically, I have not fully completed the Textiles diploma. It was a course that I thoroughly enjoyed, but I could feel it welling up inside that I was ready to go out and do my own thing. When I finally took the plunge I still needed a lot of encouragement from my partner and friends. I closed my eyes really tight and jumped!

One day I may have some of my pieces made at a knitting mill. You can do a lot on a big commercial machine that you can't do on a small hand operated machine and vice-versa. However, knitting up the samples is an integral part of my process and I can't imagine designing without being hands on the machine.


Some fabric samples


Being a fashion label, how important do you think it is to respond to current trends?
Trends can be used very constructively. They can open you to new ideas and ways of looking at things, doing things. On a practical level, they can make you more accessible. On the other hand I love designers who find an unoccupied niche and then go for it. Designers with a unique vision are usually the most inspiring.


Experimental pieces


What are some things that you draw inspiration from?
The environment has a huge impact on how I feel. My current apartment and workspace has nurtured me through a lot. It's a lovely place and there's lots of green around. The beach is at the end of the street. I'm very lucky.

For each collection thus far, I collect ideas, imagery and objects to help give the collection cohesion. My greater inspiration though is guided by a feeling of melancholy, nostalgia or whimsy and a strong sense of practicality and utility.



Whose work do you admire?
I love the textile patterns and colour palettes from the Art and Crafts and Art Nouveau periods.
The knitwear of Yohji Yamamoto. His pieces can be simultaneously rustic and naive yet contemporary and complex. The design teams behind the more textile driven fashion houses like Marni, Dries van Noten, Mina Perhonen, Eley Kishimoto and Mociun.

I'm becoming more and more interested in embroidery and stitching. I am finding a lot of work I like by young, contemporary designers like Susie Cowie.

Locally, I admire Nikki Gabriel and Katherine Bowman's work because it's just so beautiful, and to watch the set up and progress of textile printers Ink and Spindle on their blog has been fascinating.

But I admire of lot of people's work. I post these regularly on my blog.


More experimental pieces


What future plans do you have for PRIMOEZA?
I have a lot of dreams for PRIMOEZA. My next step is to start constructing garments. I'm a perfectionist though, so sampling will take me a bit of time. An important goal though is to enjoy what I have and not get too anxious about the future.

Elizabeth's workspace

Knitting machine


At last but not least, tell us a bit about your lovely cats. We hear that PRIMOEZA is a combination of their names!
Primo is a red Burmese. My partner and I had just came back from a trip to Italy and someone was looking for a home for him. I ran all the way to go and get him! His name means first in Italian. Ezra (or Eza) is a smokey black Devon Rex. He's way too smart for his own good. His name means helper in Hebrew and we got him because Primo was lonely on his own.

I was stuck for a label name for ages. I was trying to think of all these interesting names but I got sick of it and so started thinking about all the things that are dear to me. I had a joke with myself that I didn't want to call it after my partner so I'd name it after my pets!

People always ask me how to say it – it's PREE-MOE-ZA.

Sometimes I think those cats are actually goblins! There is always something happening. They are both remarkably clumsy and act like dogs. Ezra in particular loves craft and craft materials. His biggest adventure was going to the emergency room at midnight after he ate a lot of cotton and wool – he does admit that it wasn't one of his smarter decisions.

Come to Craft Hatch this Saturday!

Hey everybody, it's that time of the month again!

This edition of Hatch features a colourful bunch of makers and designers and we're really looking forward to having a gander at Adelle's spectrum of resin bangles, Sharon Margaret's delicious array of knitted faux sweeties, Kylie Bickerdike's screenprinted 'cat and mouse' fabrics, along with a host of other fabulous designers.

We're also proud to have students from NMIT's Gold & Silversmithing course in our midst. They'll be bringing along a selection of fine jewellery, so if you're after that special something look no further!

Hatch is on this Saturday 10 April from 11am to 4pm at our usual haunt (City Library gallery, 252 Flinders Lane).

PS, we have several 2-for-1 passes to see the widely lauded film Micmacs, which is another reason for you to drop by (as if you really needed one...)


Adelle



Lisa Wang


Belinda Crossley

Dawn Tan



Gemma Johnson


Little Harvest (whose beastie wheat bag was featured in last Saturdays' M Magazine pullout!)



Kylie Bickerdike


Mae Finlayson



Works from NMIT's Gold & Silversmithing course


Sharon Margaret


Victoria Mason

To recap:


What: Craft Hatch
Where: City Library Gallery, 252 Flinders Lane
When: Saturday 10 April from 11am to 4pm


See you there!

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